Touchdown Tel Aviv. It’s always a bit emotional for me. So many
memories from important periods and events in my life. So much recent misplaced vitriol and the frustration of not knowing how to deal with it.
While I was growing up and into my early adulthood, Israel
was the darling of the world’s intellectuals across the political spectrum.
This beleaguered nation built by ghetto refugees of Eastern Europe, further propelled
by survivors out of the ashes of the holocaust, defying the odds to become a
viable democracy and home for Jews from every corner of the globe, including
800,000 from North Africa who had been expelled from their homes. It was a
heroic, romantic story of hope and achievement in the post WWII period when
people were looking for a brighter future.
All this changed after the 1967 war. Suddenly, Israel’s very
success in defending itself, and every success thereafter, became a cause for
condemnation and vilification – not to mention wholesale historical
revisionism.
I arrive soon after the latest military confrontation with
Hamas – a polarizing media and maven event, but, one in which at least Israel’s
public persona was clear, unapologetic and persuasive to many, though clearly
not to all or even perhaps most. The disproportionate media attention, the
misconceptions, the distortions, and the motivationally suspect have left a bad
smell with me. What will I find this time – how will I feel?
On my second day I go on an unusual tour of Jerusalem, a
tour seen from the position, first, of the security – the lives – of the people
living there, and, second, from the point of view of the accurate history of
the city. The tour is organized by a highly partisan organization and the tour guide (an ex-South
African who hails from my childhood city of Johannesburg) glosses over some
uncomfortable details about the 1949 war and violence against the Arab
population in various places. Though much of this history is still highly
disputed, there seems to be little doubt that the Israeli forces were guilty of
bad things. Both sides were. So he distorts this by saying that all of the Arab
refugees of that period left in response to exhortations from Arab state leaders.
Many did, but many were brutally driven out. That is disappointing, to say the
least.
But, overall the picture he presents is undeniable and
highly relevant to the debate over Jerusalem. The world media has quite simply
been duped into thinking that Jerusalem was once an Arab city, important to
Islam, that the Israelis appropriated, and that the moral thing to do would be
to return it to its rightful owners. Not only is this false on the national
level (something which Libertarians would find irrelevant and obnoxious even to
say) but it is false on the individual level as well. There simply was no large
Arab population that was displaced from Jerusalem. And, importantly, Arab and
Israeli neighborhoods are so intricately intertwined now that it would be
impossible to separate the city into Arab and Jewish sections. Here are some
important facts:
Jews have been
living in Jerusalem continuously for nearly two millennia. They have
constituted the largest single group of inhabitants there since the 1840's.
Today, the total population of Jerusalem is approximately 800,000.
It is a popular misconception that East Jerusalem has historically been populated only by Arabs. In the mid- 1800's, the entire population of Jerusalem lived behind the Old City walls (what today would be considered part of the eastern part of the city). Later, the city began to expand beyond the walls because of population growth, and both Jews and Arabs began to build in new areas of the city. By the time of partition, a thriving Jewish community was living in the eastern part of Jerusalem, an area that included the Jewish Quarter of the Old City. This area of the city also contains many sites of importance to the Jewish religion, including the City of David, the Temple Mount and the Western Wall. In addition, major institutions such as Hebrew University and the original Hadassah Hospital are on Mount Scopus — in eastern Jerusalem.
The only time that the eastern part of Jerusalem was exclusively Arab was between 1949 and 1967, and that was because Jordan occupied the area and forcibly expelled all the Jews.
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This tour saddens me but adds to my previous impressions. I
try to remain optimistic and to marvel at the beauty and resilience of the city
– to the seamless mixing ancient and modern in an open and vibrant market
system. I am here to try to explain to Israelis the importance of economic
freedom, a topic I will turn to in my next blog.
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